The Royal Enclosure has rules. Some are printed, others simply understood. Among them: a proper top hat.
It isn’t optional, and it isn’t a nod to nostalgia. It’s part of the dress code, same as the morning coat, waistcoat, and tie. But unlike the rest, it’s often the last piece sorted—sometimes hastily, sometimes not at all.
And that’s where things go wrong.
The Role of the Top Hat
A good top hat doesn't stand out. It fits. It aligns with the lines of the coat, sets the proportion of the silhouette, and does what it’s supposed to: it finishes the outfit without drawing attention to itself. That’s true whether the hat is brand new or a century old.
But there are standards.
A top hat for the Royal Enclosure should be:
- Silk plush, if you can find it (and afford it)
- Felt, if you prefer something new or more forgiving
- Well-shaped, and not too short
- Properly fitted—not borrowed, not angled, not askew
Inherited pieces can work well, provided they’ve been stored properly and are brought in for a brush-up or reshaping. A warped brim or faded nap can usually be sorted without fuss.
Silk vs. Felt
Silk plush toppers—once the norm—are no longer made. The material itself hasn’t been produced since the mid-20th century. So when we speak of silk hats today, we mean antiques: often Edwardian or earlier, made to an extraordinary standard, with a depth of finish no modern felt can replicate.
But they’re rare, delicate, and expensive.
High-quality felt is more available and has quietly become the standard option for most modern dressers. It’s lighter, easier to care for, and—crucially—it holds up well in all weather. For many, especially those hiring or buying new, it’s the practical choice.
Still, if you have the option of silk, it’s worth considering. There’s a quiet richness to the material that shows up in photographs and in profile. Not essential—but noticeable.
A Short History
Top hats first appeared in the late 18th century and gained ground through the Regency period. By the 19th century, they were a fixture in both court and town dress. Ascot adopted them early, and the Royal Enclosure never looked back. The shape has varied—taller or shorter crowns, flat brims or curled—but the premise hasn’t changed in over 150 years.
Today, it remains one of the last places where the top hat is not a costume piece, but part of the expected code.
Where to Buy or Hire
There are several good options across London and further afield. We’ve collected some of them here:
👉 Top Hat Makers for the Royal Enclosure
Among them, Lock & Co. Hatters remains a reference point. Established in 1676 and based on St James’s Street, the shop has supplied toppers to monarchs, statesmen, and a steady stream of Ascot regulars. They carry antique silk options (for both purchase and hire), high-quality felt models, and provide restoration services.
👉 See Lock & Co.’s directory entry
They won’t overdo it. And they’ll get the height and shape right.
Final Note
There’s no need to overthink the top hat. But don’t ignore it. A good one fits in. A bad one sticks out.
