For many women attending Royal Ascot, the question of what to wear begins—and often ends—with the hat. It is the most visible expression of dress at the event, shaped not only by tradition but also by official rules. Unlike most other race meetings, headwear is not simply encouraged; in most parts of the racecourse, it is required.
This post sets out a few practical notes on when hats are required, what kinds are worn, and where in London one might find a suitable maker. We’ve also included a link to a directory of London milliners for Royal Ascot which may be helpful for those preparing for the Season.
Enclosure by Enclosure: When Are Hats Required?
Ascot Racecourse is divided into four primary enclosures, each with its own dress code. These codes are formalised in writing and lightly enforced at entry. For women, the distinction comes down to whether hats are expected, and what forms are acceptable.
Royal Enclosure
The most formal and historic part of the racecourse. Women must wear a hat or headpiece with a solid base measuring at least 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. Fascinators do not meet the dress code. Headpieces without a base or decorative combs are also excluded.
Queen Anne and Village Enclosures
Headwear is required, but the rules are less specific. Fascinators are allowed, and the 4-inch base rule does not apply. There is greater scope for personal preference in material, scale, and styling.
Windsor Enclosure
No formal dress code. Hats are not required here, although many guests still choose to wear one, particularly on Ladies’ Day.
Style Considerations
The phrase “Ascot hat” brings to mind a very particular image—often wide-brimmed, floral, and dramatic. But in practice, the range of styles worn to Royal Ascot is more varied. Some opt for sculptural or minimalist forms; others for traditional silhouettes with modern materials. Still others borrow or hire hats for the day, rather than commission something new.
Common Styles
- Wide-brimmed hats: Structured or soft, often trimmed with ribbon, veiling, or floral elements. Common in the Royal Enclosure.
- Perchers and pillboxes: Secured with a comb or headband, worn at an angle, often lighter and easier to wear.
- Headpieces: Especially in Queen Anne and Village Enclosures, headpieces with feathers or florals are widely worn.
Neutral tones (navy, ivory, dove grey) remain a staple, while pastel and bolder colours often appear throughout the week. Matching the hat to the outfit is common, but contrast is equally accepted.
Making and Hiring
Many hats worn to Ascot are made to order, designed to suit the outfit and the wearer. Others come from ready-to-wear collections or are hired from specialist studios.
Materials and Construction
Common materials include sinamay, straw, silk, felt, and hand-dyed fabrics. Trimmings might include feathers, ribbon, veiling, or sculpted forms. Most hats are handmade in the UK, often using traditional blocking techniques.
Pricing and Access
- Ready-to-wear: £150–£300
- Bespoke: From £400 upward
- Hire: Typically £75–£200 for the event
Lead times vary—bespoke work should be commissioned several weeks in advance, particularly in May and early June.
Where to Find a Hat in London
London remains one of the world’s leading centres of millinery. From long-established names in St James’s and Belgravia to newer studios in Notting Hill and beyond, the city offers a range of approaches—from classic to contemporary, bespoke to off-the-rack.
We've compiled a working directory of women’s milliners in London, with notes on location, price range, and services offered (including hire and bespoke). It’s particularly geared to Royal Ascot, but may be useful more broadly for events in the Season.
Final Thoughts
For many, the hat is the most memorable part of Royal Ascot dressing—not necessarily for its size or flourish, but for what it signals: a gesture toward form, rhythm, and the shared sense of occasion that defines the week. Whether chosen with restraint or flair, the hat completes the picture.
